Madurai grew around its temple. The shrine of Meenakshi, a form of Parvati, and her consort Sundareswarar, a form of Shiva, stands at the centre of concentric streets on the southern bank of the Vaigai river, and its gateway towers can be seen from much of the old city.

The gopurams

The complex is enclosed by walls pierced with towering gateways, or gopurams, each covered in brightly painted figures of deities, guardians and animals. Walking around the outer streets before entering helps make sense of the layout.

Festivals

The temple's best-known celebration is the Chithirai festival, held in the Tamil month of Chithirai (April to May), which re-enacts the celestial wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar. The city is exceptionally busy during this period, so book accommodation early.